That cashmere sweater. It feels like a cloud, looks effortlessly elegant, and was probably a significant investment. Then the dread sets in. A tiny spill, a lingering odor, or just the natural need for a refresh. The care tag says "dry clean only," and a wave of panic hits. What if I told you that washing your cashmere sweater at home is not only possible but often better for the fabric than repeated commercial dry cleaning? I learned this the hard way after a "dry clean only" label led to a shrunken, felted mess years ago. The truth is, with the right technique, you can safely wash cashmere and extend its life dramatically. This guide strips away the fear and gives you the clear, actionable steps used by textile experts.cashmere care

Your Cashmere Care Roadmap

Why Proper Cashmere Washing Matters

Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of goats. Each fiber is incredibly fine and delicate, with a scaly outer structure. Heat, agitation, and harsh chemicals cause those scales to lock together permanently—that's felting, the point of no return. The goal of washing isn't just to clean; it's to preserve the fiber's integrity.

Here’s a perspective most guides miss: frequent dry cleaning uses chemical solvents like perchloroethylene (perc). Over time, these can strip the natural lanolin from the fibers, leaving cashmere feeling dry, brittle, and more prone to pilling. Gentle hand washing with a proper wool wash actually reconditions the fibers. It maintains that heavenly softness from the inside out. Think of it as hydration for your sweater.washing cashmere

Step-by-Step Guide to Hand Washing Cashmere

This is the gold standard method. Set aside 30 minutes of focused time. Rushing leads to mistakes.

Gather Your Supplies

You don't need specialty gear, just the right basics. A clean sink or basin works, but I prefer a large plastic tub—it feels cleaner than a kitchen sink. You'll need:

  • A wool-specific detergent: This is non-negotiable. Regular detergents are too alkaline. Look for brands like The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo, Eucalan, or Kookaburra. These are pH-balanced and often contain lanolin or conditioners.
  • Lukewarm water: Test it with your wrist. It should feel neutral, barely warm. Hot water is the enemy.
  • Two clean, dry towels: Thick, absorbent cotton towels.
  • A flat drying surface: A mesh drying rack, a clean towel laid on a table, or even a window screen.
Pro Tip: Before you start, take a quick photo of the sweater laid flat. This is your reference for its original shape and size if you get nervous during drying.

The Washing Process: A Gentle Soak

  1. Fill & Mix: Fill your basin with 2-3 inches of lukewarm water. Add a small amount of wool wash (follow the bottle's directions—usually a teaspoon or capful) and swish to dissolve.
  2. Submerge & Soak: Turn your sweater inside out. This protects the outer surface during agitation. Gently submerge it. Press down softly to ensure it's fully wet. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes. No scrubbing, no swirling. Just let the detergent do the work.
  3. The "Agitation" Myth: You'll read "swish gently." I'm more cautious. If there's a soiled spot (like a cuff), place your hand under the fabric and gently press the spot against your palm a few times. That's it. The fibers are most vulnerable when wet.

Rinsing: The Most Critical Step

This is where most people mess up. You must remove ALL soap residue.

  1. Drain the Soapy Water. Gently press the sweater against the side of the basin to remove water. Don't wring or lift it by its weight, as this stretches it.
  2. Refill with Clean Water. Add fresh lukewarm water to the basin. Submerge the sweater and gently press to release soap. Drain. Repeat this rinse process 2-3 times until the water runs completely clear.cashmere care

Can You Machine Wash Cashmere? (The Safe Way)

I can feel the purists cringing. But modern front-loading washing machines with dedicated wool cycles have changed the game. The key is absolute control. I do this with my basic, non-luxury cashmere sweaters and have for years without issue. Do NOT attempt this with a top-loader with an agitator.

Method Best For Key Requirements Risk Level
Hand Washing All cashmere, especially delicate, loose-knit, or first-time attempts. Wool wash, lukewarm water, patience. Low (with care)
Machine Washing Sturdier, tighter-knit sweaters you wear frequently. Not for ultra-fine or embellished pieces. Front-loader with wool/delicate cycle. Mesh laundry bag. Wool wash. Medium (requires precise settings)

The Machine Wash Protocol:

  1. Turn the sweater inside out and place it in a zippered mesh laundry bag. This minimizes friction.
  2. Use a wool/delicate cycle with COLD water. Disable the "extra rinse" if you have hard water, as more water can mean more mineral deposits.
  3. Use the lowest possible spin speed (often 400 RPM or less). High spin speeds can distort the knit.
  4. Add the recommended amount of wool wash to the dispenser. Do not use fabric softener.
  5. Run the cycle and pray to the laundry gods. Just kidding. But do check on it immediately after.

How to Dry Cashmere Sweaters Without Stretching

Water is heavy. A sopping wet sweater pulled down by gravity will stretch into a dress. Your mission: remove water without distortion.

The Towel Method (My Go-To):

Lay a dry towel on a flat surface. Gently lift your rinsed sweater (support it from underneath) and place it on the towel. Roll the towel and sweater together into a loose log. Press firmly along the roll. You'll see a shocking amount of water transfer to the towel. Unroll.

Now, lay the damp sweater on your mesh drying rack. Gently pat and tug it back into the shape from your reference photo. Pay special attention to the neckline, shoulders, and hem. Reshape it every few hours as it dries.

Never, Ever: Hang a wet cashmere sweater on a hanger or clothesline. The weight will stretch the shoulders beyond repair. Never use a tumble dryer—even on air fluff. The heat and tumbling will felt the fibers.

Drying takes 24-48 hours. Place it in a well-ventilated room, away from direct heat or sunlight.washing cashmere

Storing Your Cashmere to Prevent Moths and Damage

Moths are attracted to soiled fibers, not clean ones. The best defense is a clean sweater. Before storing for the season, always wash it, even if it looks clean.

  • Fold, Don't Hang: Use the classic fold to avoid creases. Hanging stretches the shoulders over time.
  • Storage Containers: Use breathable cotton storage bags or a cedar chest. Avoid plastic bins long-term, as they can trap moisture.
  • Natural Repellents: Cedar blocks or rings are good. Lavender sachets work but can scent the wool. I rotate cedar blocks in my drawers yearly, sanding them lightly to refresh the scent.

Common Cashmere Washing Mistakes to Avoid

Let's be blunt about where things go wrong.

  • Using Hot Water: This is the #1 cause of felting and shrinkage. Lukewarm only.
  • Skimping on Rinsing: Soap residue attracts dirt and makes fibers stiff.
  • Wringing or Twisting: This damages the fiber structure. Always press and roll.
  • Drying Near Heat: Radiators, heaters, and hairdryers are a fast track to a shrunken sweater.
  • Using Generic Detergent or Fabric Softener: They coat and break down delicate fibers.cashmere care

Cashmere Care FAQ: Your Top Questions Answered

Can I wash cashmere in a washing machine if it says "dry clean only"?

The "dry clean only" label is often a manufacturer's blanket disclaimer to avoid liability. For simple, unlined cashmere knits, gentle hand washing as described above is almost always safer for the fiber than chemical solvents. Start with your least favorite sweater to gain confidence. Embellished, lined, or structured cashmere blazers are a different story—stick to dry cleaning for those.

How do I remove a stain from cashmere without washing the whole sweater?

Act fast. Blot (don't rub) any liquid. For an oil-based stain, a tiny drop of clear dish soap on the spot, gently worked in with cold water, can help. Rinse that spot thoroughly. For other stains, I use a Q-tip dipped in the wool wash solution to dab at the area, then rinse with a damp cloth. The goal is localized treatment to avoid a full wetting, but if the stain is large or stubborn, a full, gentle wash is better than aggressive spot treatment.

My cashmere sweater shrank a little. Can I fix it?

You can sometimes regain some size, but it's not guaranteed. Soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a capful of hair conditioner (a trick from knitters) for 30 minutes. The conditioner relaxes the fibers. Gently press out water, then lay it flat on a towel. While it's damp, slowly and gently stretch it back to shape, focusing on the length and width. Pin it to the towel with rust-proof pins to hold the shape as it dries. This works for minor shrinkage, not severe felting.

Why does my cashmere sweater pill, and how do I remove pills?

Pilling is normal, especially in areas of friction (underarms, sides). It's not a sign of poor quality but of loose fibers coming to the surface and tangling. A sharp fabric shaver (not a cheap battery-operated one that pulls) is your best friend. Use it gently on a flat surface. Never use a razor, as it's too easy to cut the good fabric. Higher-grade, longer-fiber cashmere will pill less over time.

How often should I wash my cashmere sweater?

Wash it at the end of a season before storage, or after every 4-5 wears if you're using it regularly. Letting sweat and oils build up attracts moths and degrades the fiber. Air it out between wears. For more detailed guidance on fabric care, organizations like The Woolmark Company provide excellent resources on caring for wool and other protein fibers.