You love that hat. It fits perfectly, it's broken in just right, and it's your go-to for sunny days or bad hair days. But now it's got a sweat stain on the brim and smells a bit... lived-in. Throwing it in the washing machine seems risky. Hand-washing feels like a chore. I get it. I've been there, and I've also made the mistake of tossing a beloved wool cap into hot water, only to pull out a felted, doll-sized version. Let's not do that. Washing hats isn't hard, but doing it wrong is permanent. This guide cuts through the guesswork. It's not just about looks. Dirt, sweat, and oils break down fibers. A dirty sweatband can irritate your skin. For structured hats like baseball caps or fedoras, improper washing destroys the internal support, leaving you with a sad, floppy mess. The goal isn't just clean; it's clean and intact. A good cleaning extends the life of your hat by years. Pro Tip: The single most important rule? Check the care label first. If it says "Dry Clean Only," especially on a fancy wool felt or structured hat, listen to it. Home washing will likely end in tears. This is where most guides are too vague. "Use gentle soap" doesn't help when you're staring at a straw hat versus a polyester trucker cap. Material dictates everything. See the difference? A polyester running cap can handle a gentle machine wash, but that beautiful Panama straw hat just needs a wipe. Most of your everyday hats—cotton caps, acrylic beanies—fall into the hand-wash or gentle machine-wash category. Let's get specific, because "how to wash baseball caps" is probably why you're here. Most modern caps are a mix: a polyester front panel, cotton sweatband, and a plastic mesh back. The plastic brim is the tricky part. High heat can warp it permanently. My method? For a standard cap, I use the top rack of the dishwasher. Sounds crazy, but hear me out. No detergent. Just place it on the top rack, run a normal cycle without heat dry, and let it air dry. The water pressure and heat clean it without the agitation of a washing machine that can misshape the crown. For older or more delicate caps, stick to hand-washing. I've learned these from experience and from talking to folks who run hat restoration businesses. Watch Out: That "sanitize" cycle on your washer or dishwasher? It's way too hot for any hat. Avoid it completely. This works for 90% of washable hats: cotton caps, beanies, synthetic blends. Let's walk through it. Step 1: Prep. Fill your sink with cool water and a small amount of detergent. Swirl to mix. Don't over-soap. Step 2: Spot Clean. Before submerging, take your soft brush, dip it in the soapy water, and gently work on any visible stains on the brim or front panel. For sweat stains on the inner band, pay extra attention here. Step 3: Submerge and Soak. Place the hat in the water. Gently swish it around. Let it soak for 30-60 minutes. This loosens deep-down grime and sweat. Don't leave it for hours. Step 4: Rinse. Drain the soapy water. Refill the sink with clean, cold water. Swish the hat to rinse. Repeat until the water runs clear and no suds remain. Soap residue attracts more dirt. Step 5: Remove Water. This is critical. Do not wring. Press the hat gently against the side of the sink to push out water. Then, lay it on a thick, clean towel. Roll the towel up with the hat inside and press gently to absorb more moisture. Now, move to drying. If you're washing multiple cotton or synthetic hats, the machine can be okay—if you take precautions. I only recommend this for durable, unstructured hats like knit beanies or very sturdy cotton caps. The Rules for Machine Washing Hats: Even then, machine washing is a risk. Hand-washing gives you control. Drying is arguably more important than washing. For Knit Beanies & Unstructured Hats: Lay them flat on a dry towel, reshape them, and let them air dry away from direct sunlight or heat sources. For Structured Caps (Baseball Caps, etc.): This is where you need to preserve the crown shape. Do not lay it flat—the brim will dry bent. Instead: Place the hat on the form/can/bowl and let it air dry completely. This can take 24-48 hours. Be patient. Storage: Don't stack heavy items on top of hats. For caps, clip them to a hat rack or store them on shelves crown-down to protect the brim. For delicate straw or felt hats, keep them in a box with tissue paper to support the crown.
Quick Navigation: Find Your Hat's Wash Method
Why Getting Hat Cleaning Right Matters

How to Wash Hats by Material (The Essential Guide)

Hat Material
Best Cleaning Method
Key Do's
Key Don'ts
Cotton (e.g., standard baseball caps, beanies)
Hand-wash or gentle machine cycle.
Use cold water. Spot clean stains first.
Don't use bleach (it weakens fibers). Avoid high heat drying.
Wool (e.g., winter beanies, fedoras, felt caps)
Hand-wash only with wool-specific detergent.
Use cold water. Reshape while damp. Air dry flat.
NEVER use hot water (causes felting/shrinkage). Don't wring or twist.
Synthetic (Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic)
Hand-wash or gentle machine cycle. Very durable.
Cold to warm water is fine. Air dries quickly.
Avoid high-heat dryers as it can melt fibers or cause warping.
Straw & Raffia
Surface cleaning only. Wipe with damp cloth.
Use mild soapy water. Wipe gently along the weave. Air dry completely in shade.
Never submerge. Avoid excessive moisture which causes straw to swell and lose shape.
Tweed & Structured Wool
Professional dry cleaning recommended.
Use a soft brush for dust. Steam to refresh.
Do not hand-wash. Water will ruin the shape and stiffening.

The Special Case of the Baseball Cap
5 Common Hat Cleaning Mistakes That Ruin Your Gear
The Foolproof Step-by-Step Hand-Washing Method

Your Hand-Washing Toolkit:

How to (Safely) Wash Hats in a Washing Machine
Drying and Storing Your Hats to Keep Their Shape
Your Hat Washing Questions, Answered
Can I wash a hat in the dishwasher?
For structured baseball caps with a plastic brim, it can be a viable method, but with major caveats. Use the top rack only, no detergent, and run a normal cycle with the heat dry function turned OFF. The goal is to use the water spray, not the heat. For wool, straw, leather, or any hat with glue or a paper brim, never use the dishwasher.
How do I remove yellow sweat stains from a white hat's brim?
Yellowing is often a combination of sweat, oils, and oxidized detergent. Create a paste with baking soda and water or a mix of hydrogen peroxide (3%) and a few drops of dawn soap. Apply it to the stained area with a toothbrush and let it sit for an hour in the sun (the sun acts as a mild bleach). Then, wash as normal. For old, set-in stains, complete removal might not be possible.
Is it safe to wash a hat with embroidery or patches?
Usually, yes, if the thread is polyester (which most modern embroidery is). Turn the hat inside out before washing to protect the embroidered design from friction. Use cold water and air dry. If the patch is glued on or very old, hand-washing with minimal agitation is safer.
My wool beanie shrank! Can I fix it?
You can try to gently stretch it back. Soak it in cool water with a bit of hair conditioner (which relaxes fibers). After 10 minutes, gently press out water—don't rinse. Lay it flat on a towel and slowly, carefully stretch it back to shape, pulling widthwise more than lengthwise. Pin it in place with rust-proof pins and let it dry. Success isn't guaranteed, but it's worth a shot.
How often should I wash my hats?
There's no set rule. Wash them when they look dirty, smell, or feel stiff from sweat and salt buildup. A frequently worn baseball cap might need a wash every few weeks in summer. A winter wool beanie might only need one wash at season's end. Spot cleaning in between full washes extends the time between deep cleans.